Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

London under snow

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

Our plane landed in London at 7:30am on Tuesday, Feb 3.

We got out of the airport and onto the tube at about 8:30am

We got off the tube at our station at about 10 am.

We got home stortly after that and slept until around 4pm.

London got a bit of snow, but the country as a whole, and people as individuals don’t know how to cope with it very well. In Canada the amount of snow that fell would have been a non event, but here because of the rarity, and lack of preparation / resources / knowledge, most of the country was apparently shut down for the day.

Our backyard, the day after the big snow

Our backyard, the day after the big snow

I see in the paper that 40% of the garbage that was supposed to be picked up since the start of the week hasn’t been yet, since the garbage trucks can’t go down many streets, since they are still too icy. Also, some garbage trucks have been taken off duty and are being used to lay down grit. Now rats and foxes are scavenging and starting to “cause problems”

No one on our street seems to have thought to clear the snow off the sidewalk, and so it all got trampled down and turned to ice. This makes walking up and down the street fun, since there is a hill on our street. We have been walking down the middle of the road, since that is clear, but usually have to move to the side a couple of times for cars to get past.

Directions to our hostel

Monday, February 2nd, 2009

As a funny aside, the directions we got from the backpackers were along the lines of:

  • Go to Brussels North train station
  • Walk 3 blocks north
  • Walk 5 blocks East
  • Walk 3 blocks South

We followed them on the day we arrived, but thought it was a bit strange. On the 2nd day of our trip, we had to go back to the train station to go to Bruges, so we took to more direct route of just going 3 blocks east. It turns out the reason for the detour was that the 5 blocks between our hostel and the train station were the red light district.

At least that is what I think it was, but it might be a Belgium tradition to put red neon lights around the corner of your full length street level window, and then sit on a chair and watch passers by. In a bikini. At 9am on a Sunday.

For some reason all the ladies seemed to be Black, but maybe that was just the streets we walked down.

Last day in Brussels

Monday, February 2nd, 2009

On our last day (or so we thought) in Brussels we didn’t get up to much. We checked out of our hostel in the morning, and left our bag there in a locker to pick up on our way to the airport.

It had been snowing during the night, and there was about 2 cm of snow.

A winter wonderland

A winter wonderland

Mysterious Tracks in the Snow

Mysterious Tracks in the Snow

We did stumble across this cool sculpture by Arne Quinze called “The Sequence”

The Sequence, by Arne Quinze

The Sequence, by Arne Quinze

Around 5pm, we went back to our backpackers, picked up our bags and went to the airport. When we got there we found out that our flight had been cancelled, due to the heavy snow in London. We were able to rebook for 7am the next morning.

We looked into taking the train back, but it was €250 per ticket, and there were no more trains that evening. To give a sense of scale, our cheap air tickets were £90 return each.

After that we thought about staying at the airport hotel, but that was €260 for a room. Our hostel had been £50 a night, but we weren’t sure if we would be able to get another room there, and didn’t really feel like getting a train back into town, and then having to walk back to the hostel again. So we decided to spend the night sleeping in the airport.

Staying at an airport over night is something that I would recommend everyone do at least once in their life. Unfortunately I had already done it when I was 16. We got a spot on some chairs by an area that was walled off for construction, so it had a little section of kind of secluded floor space. It was quite close to the elevators and escalators though, and I’m pretty sure that someone driving a Zamboni drove right past us 4 times in a row at around 3 in the morning cleaning the floors.

At least we didn’t have any trouble getting up for the 5am check in.

In Bruges

Sunday, February 1st, 2009

On Sunday, the second day of our Belgium trip we caught a train to Bruges.

It has quite a nice old city center, with cobbled narrow streets and not many cars around. There were also quite a few horses + carts around, carrying tourists on trips around the city.

We climbed up the tower in the center of town, which had 360 or so of the worst steps I have ever used. The stairs start out ok, and get increasingly narrow, steep and tilted as you climb up. It seemed like at the top every stair had a different slope, width and height, which made climbing up and down quite an adventure.

The Belfry Tower, Bruges

The Belfry Tower, Bruges

This tower is featured in the movie “In Bruges” in a scene where Colin Farrell tells a fat American he will never make it up the tower because he is too fat, and the stairs are too narrow. Colin was absolutely correct, and probably saved the guy €6, but he didn’t get much thanks for it.

There were good views from the top, and also cold fast winds. The bells also chimed the quarter hour, and I feel sorry for people who get caught up there when they really go off.

View of Bruges from the Belfry

View of Bruges from the Belfry

After the Tower we had lunch at a place in the square. It was a pretty fancy restuarant, but luckily Sarah decided to order the €10 mussels special instead of the €45 1/2 lobster in love (in gin and martini). The mussels were quite good, although much smaller than the mussels you would get in NZ. They came in a pot, and there were probably 30 – 50 mussels, with the eatable part of each one being about the size of my thumb.

I had 1/2 chicken and chips, and a €3.50 200ml coke! That makes it the most expensive coke I have had so far, and of course I didn’t know how small or expensive it was going to be before I ordered it. At least the chicken and mussels were good.

After lunch we went to a chocolate musuem, which had a history of chocolate, a chocolate art gallery, and a short demonstration of making pralines.

Chocolate Madonna and Child

Chocolate Madonna and Child

The most interesting part to me was to make the praline shells, they fill the mold with chocolate, leave it for a few seconds to let the outside harden, then flip the mold over and let the rest of the chocolate fall out. I thought it would be harder than that, but sometimes life is simple I guess.

Chocolate Statues

Chocolate Statues

Brussels, Belgium

Saturday, January 31st, 2009

Sarah and I went to Belgium for a long weekend.

We spent Saturday and Monday in Brussels, and met up with Manneken Pis, a famous statue of a happy pissing boy whose name in dutch means “Little pee man.”

Manneken Pis

Manneken Pis

The day we saw him he was wearing what looked like a boy scout uniform. He has over 600 different outfits in all, and they get changed regularly. We just missed out on seeing him in his Mozart outfit. Sometimes he gets hooked up to a keg of beer, and they fill cups up and hand them out to the crowds.

He wasn’t doing that the day we saw him, so we went across the road to a pub and had a couple of large glasses of Belgium beer. Sarah really liked the cherry flavored beer called Krick.

Sarah and cherry beer

Sarah and cherry beer

I bought a fake australian hat from a traveling hat salesman, after shrewdly bargaining him down from dix-neuf to cinque euro in the space of about 10 seconds by repeatedly telling him I didn’t want to buy it. Sadly the thrill of the incredible discount was soon replaced by buyer remorse.

Shen and €5 hat

Shen and €5 hat

We also went to the cartoon museum, to see about Belgium comics, of which Tintin, Lucky Luke and the Smurfs are the most famous internationally.

Tintin on the moon

Tintin on the moon

Discovering America

Discovering America

Oxford

Friday, January 23rd, 2009

I went to Oxford to see James and Victoria, and celebrate with them for finishing their PhDs. They finished their oral examinations on the 20th (James) and the 21st (Vic). They were both done in just over 2 hours, which is apparently pretty fast, and only have to make some minor corrections.

Hooray for James and Victoria! James is already a medical doctor, so they are now know as Doctor doctor and doctor.

The first day I was there, James took me on a quick tour of the city, while Vic had her oral exam. We saw the Oxford bridge of sighs, the Radcliffe Camera (not a camera at all, but a boring old building), and some theatre called the Sheldonian, which had a bunch of busts out the front.

Oxford Bridge of Sighs

Oxford Bridge of Sighs

The Sheldonian

The Sheldonian

After Vic finished up we celebrated with a few bottles of sparkling wine (champaine that isn’t from Champaine, France) and then we went out to dinner with a large group of people from James and Vic’s research labs.

After that we went for a few ice cold tubes (of amber neck oil), at some of the local pubs, and even managed to wangle a lock in. A good time was had by all, and no one needed to throw their voice (technicolor yawn).

Oxford school chums

Oxford school chums

I had originally booked a return train tickets from London to Oxford and back again for the same day. They cost £8 in total, so I figured I might as well miss my return train and go home the next day. This meant I was able to go to the dinner and drinks. Imagine my surprise when a one way ticket from Oxford to London ended up costing me £20!

As an aside, On the trip over to Oxford I was looking out my window at a disgusting light industrial wasteland, and thinking how terrible it was. A few seconds later we passed the train station, and it was Slough, the town immortalized by The Office and the funny 1937 poem “Slough” by John Betjeman.

Tower of London

Sunday, January 11th, 2009

We went to see the Tower of London today.

Tower of London, seen from the River Thames, with a view of Traitor's Gate, by Viki Male

Tower of London, seen from the River Thames, with a view of Traitor's Gate, by Viki Male

The best parts were the crown jewels and the ravens.

The crown jewels include the 2 biggest pieces of the largest rough diamond ever found, the Cullinan diamond, otherwise known as the Star of Africa. Before it was cut, it was 3106.75 carats (621 grams). After it was cut the largest diamond from it is still 530 carats (106 grams). That diamond is in a sceptre, and the next largest diamond is in a crown. the area directly in front of all the crowns and jewels is one of those hizontal escalators, so you can’t stand and gawk for too long. The day we were there there weren’t too many people, so we got a pretty good look.

They also had a huge gold wine bowl that could hold 144 bottles of wine, and had a ladle that was made out of a big conch shell on the end of a big gold rod. Pretty classy stuff.

Here is a photo gallery of some of the crown jewels, cleverly photographed in such a way as to remove all sense of scale.

A flock of about 8 or 10 ravens are kept on the tower grounds. They are kept with one wing quite severly clipped, so they can’t fly away. They are very intelligent birds, and a lot of fun to watch as they hop around the lawns, scavenging and sharpening their beaks.

One came up about 50 cm away from me and stood looking at me for a few minutes, but eventually left since I wasn’t giving him any food.

Tickets were £16 each, but Sarah got in for free as she is a member of the British historic places trust.

I’d say it was a fun afternoon out, but I don’t think I need to go back again.

Durham, England

Monday, January 5th, 2009

On our second day in Newcastle, we took a day trip to Durham.

Durham is a small town of 40 – 50 000, about 20km from Newcastle. It has a big cathedral, a castle of its own (but its not a new castle), and many shopping malls. It also apparently has a hospital and a university.

The cathedral was quite nice. My favorite part was the Tomb of St Bede, that had a sculpture with some very interesting typography on it.

Here is a set of very good quality photos of the cathedral.

While we were in town I helped a few of the locals with a funeral. Luckily I was dressed for the part.

Sculpture in Durham

Sculpture in Durham

Parts of the downtown were quite nice, with narrow streets and stairs going down to the river which winds through the main part of town.

Angel of the North, Newcastle, England

Sunday, January 4th, 2009

After leaving Scotland, we stayed in Newcastle for 2 days instead of returning to London directly

Newcastle is home to a great sculpture, The Angel of the North, designed by Anthony Gormley. It stands 20m tall and 54m wide, and can be seen for miles. When seen from a distance it is usually just a tiny thing, but up close it is very impressive.

Angel of the North

Angel of the North

Angels of the North

Angels of the North

We also went to see the Jim Carrey movie “Yes Man”, which was ok.

Scottish Highlands

Friday, January 2nd, 2009

We took a one day bus trip to the Scottish Highlands and Loch Ness.

It was a beautiful day, no rain, and mostly sunny. However, since it was the middle of winter, it was very cold, and got dark around 4pm.

On the way in, we stopped for lunch at a little shop / restaurant / tourist trap that had some of the best hoar frost I have see in a while.

Hoar Frost

Hoar Frost

We stopped at Castle Urquhart, which is on the shore of Loch Ness. It is the largest ruined castle in the UK. It is nice for a quick look, but everyone on the tour decided to do the boat tour of Loch Ness instead of a tour of the Castle. It was just a couple of walls after all.

Castle Urquhart, Loch Ness, Scotland

Castle Urquhart, Loch Ness, Scotland

Loch Ness itself was ok. The bus driver had told us that it was a physical and biological impossibility for there to be a Loch Ness monster. Apparently there are 18 Loch Ness monsters, which provides enough of a population for sustainable breeding. Or maybe they are on the decline.

He also mentioned the Ogopogo monster in BC, and some other Loch Ness type monsters around the world, which I thought was kind of cool.

As it turns out we were lucky enough to get a sighting of these marvelous beasts.

Loch Ness Monster

Loch Ness Monster

The white note taped to the base of its nesk is a sign telling people not to touch or ride the monster. They are an endangered species after all…